17.3.13

a K in B.A.

There are a lot of labels that have been put on me over the years.  TCK (Third Culture Kid), MK (Missionary Kid), and the always classic PK (Perfect Kid--not to be confused with Pastor's Kid ;) ).  While those descriptions often do a suitable job to help explain why and who I am today, I refuse to be confined to them.  No no no.  Instead of approaching this time in Argentina as an opportunity to re-experience the six years of my childhood that were spent here or to fulfill any other type of expectation one of those "labels" could put on me, I am eager and set on living these next 5 months in Buenos Aires simply as a K.  Just a kid.  Not defined by any other labels (though they may be put on me).

A kid, her pillow-pet, and her hopes that, although her camera might do a pretty darn good job, it won't be able to capture all of the amazing memories that are about to be created. But God knows I’ll try to convey this wonderful experience through my words and my lens!

And thus, we are left here with this beginning account of my first couple of weeks spent in Buenos Aires--courtesy of my child-like over enthusiasm at all things Argentine and my trigger-camera-happy finger.




We're going to skip the goodbyes, the Wisconsin cold, and the descriptions of the surprisingly good airplane food and get right down to the good stuff--Buenos Aires, Argentina.

The writer in me wants to say that first walking out of Ezeiza Airport was like breathing in a breath of fresh air, but the Honest Abe in me has to say that it was more like breathing in a breath of cough-inducing, second-hand cigarette smoke. And to me, that sweet smell (though I am not a smoker) was a whiff of delicious, asthma-irritating, familiarity of this city.
Yet that same familiarity was constantly mixed with a feeling of uncertainty as I didn't know where the FLACSO bus was taking us, who would be there, and what we would do. And that's very fitting of how my first few days in Buenos Aires turned out to be--vague sights or customs that I remembered overshadowed by the cloudy feeling that I wasn't quite confident in knowing exactly what they were or how they were done.

I remembered that people here often bought their fruits at a store of its own entity--a verdulería or frutería--but I couldn't remember exactly how this was done.  Do I touch the fruits myself? Do I tell them what I want?  How do I know they aren't charging me too much for what I'm buying?  How much is this coin that I have in my hand even worth?!?!

The same went for the Panadería.  And this was something that , for the sake of my sweet tooth, I would need to get cleared up right away.  By trial, and not so much error thanks to the helpful workers, I found that you get to fill your own basket with baked goods.  I also found that the baskets can hold just about one of every type of baked good.......This was very good news for a person whose personal motto is "No amount of dulce de leche is ever enough dulce de leche"


                       

And other than dulce de leche, you know what I missed?
Coca-Cola from a glass bottle.  Although it is obtainable in the States, it's not as common.
You know what I forgot you need to have in order to drink Coca-Cola from a glass bottle?
A bottle opener.  Yet another "detail" of my memories that I left out. (Or perhaps just common-sense, in this case).
You know what works instead of a bottle opener?  A roommate and her key.  Just in case any of you are ever stuck in the same predicament, impatiently awaiting that sweet, syrupy taste that you hadn't had for three years...







I missed the normalcy of getting an afternoon "café".  I missed being waited on and being casually impressed that orders never had to be written down, that it was expected that people would sit and chat for a couple of hours, and the elegant show that always accompanied ordering a simple café con leche--The heated up cup of milk, the small glass of sparkling water, and often, the mini alfajor served to you.


Apparently, though, I missed some other things too.  Like, how much you should tip a waiter, the art of discreetly yet confidently getting their attention for the check, and the common knowledge that the large packets are sugar, the small packets are sweetner, and you do not successfully get the latter by saying that you would like "algo que es azucar, pero.....no es azucar" (Something that is sugar....but it's not sugar).  That will only leave you with a waiter who thinks you're Brazilian and have mixed more in your café than just leche...if you know what I mean...












Despite the leisure that accompanies an afternoon cafecito, I am enamored with the contrast of energy that is constantly flowing throughout the city.  

The streets are full of stands that lend to the life and color of Buenos Aires, people are walking to work, walking home for lunch, or stopping to get their shoes shined on their break which is indubitably cementing the perception of a hard-working and versatile society and culture.
I feel like this could be the cover of a magazine!  'El Porteño', perhaps

The architecture is constantly leaving me breathless. 


And with the 'hustle and bustle' of the city comes the 'watching and waiting' of Public Transportation. 


The adorable reality that you never get too old to wait for your bus.  
And once past the initial view of what it was like to be surrounded by a passionate people and city, I was blessed enough to move one degree closer--well, as close as you can get, actually--and live with a wonderful Argentine woman named Gabriela.  




Gabriela, or more fondly called Gabe, is an inspiring woman to say the least.  Immediately she exemplified, with poise, the candid personality that is very much a part of the Argentine's nature.  She gifted me with stories about herself, her family, her life and almost instantly made me feel comfortable and free to do the same with her.

She is an accomplished writer, a sought after literary editor, a mother, a grandmother, a life-long friend, a selfless and hospitable host, a master in the kitchen, and one half of the pre-dinner entertainment duet that one is lucky to listen in on.



Her duet partner, comes in the form of her long-time boyfriend, Sebastián.  Sebastián is never lacking in versatility of dinner conversations--ranging from stories of his visits to the USA, peeling back layers of Peronismo in hopes of helping me better understand, to discussions on our favorite Argentine cinema.

Dinners have easily become one of my favorite parts of Bs. Ar.  You can't go wrong when you have the certainty of delicious food and delving conversation.





But, if you are lucky enough to live with Gabe, you should know that she comes with terms and conditions.  That is, you also live with her cat, Piori, and are sure to be constantly surprised by her children and friends stopping by--often times when she isn't even home!  (No one can stay away from her cooking and welcoming home for too long!)  That said, other than the cat, those "terms and conditions" are more like "limited time special offers"--because of course, her family and friends are completely wonderful people as well!

Celebrating Gabe's birthday!

More than her food. Her family. Her friends. Her emphasis that I am comfortable in "my home". One of my favorite perks to living with Gabe, in this home, is the terrazza that I get to use whenever I please!  Much tanning, drooling over the view of the city, and hanging out with friends has taken place on my apartment roof!
Obviously, this doesn't even do the actual sight justice.


Celebrating my friend Ainsley's 21st birthday with a skyline, rooftop, make-shift asado.
And although my home (and terrazza :) ) are so wonderful, I have managed to tear myself away long enough to begin to peel away (keeping in mind it's only been two weeks and I have an entire 5 MONTHS!!) the many layers of vivid life that Buenos Aires has to offer.




One of the first stops: Cementario de Recoleta.
Unless you visited (or saw some schnazzy pictures) I suppose you wouldn't ever expect that visiting a, put in simple terms, graveyard would be so beautiful!  Even more than gorgeous the cemetery is now "home" to many famous people from the likes of Eva Perón to Vicente López y Planes.  And, according to my sources--and obviously by "sources" I mean my singular source of Wikipedia--both BBC and CNN have praised el Cementario de Recoleta for both its beauty and its value.

And no, Evita's grave is not pictured below.  I would like to say it's not pictured out of some sort of sense of respect towards her, but in reality, maps are hard and I'm certain that next year BBC or CNN might list el Cementario de Recoleta as 'one of the world's most intricate mazes'.  






A couple of my friends and I were also lucky enough to take a turn through
El Jardín Japonés, where my favorite encounter was by far the distraught koi (a type of Carp fish).  That said, the entire garden was beautiful and made you feel as if you truly were in the oriental.  That is, until you looked up and could see the towering buildings looming over the cherry trees and Asian styled architecture, and you remembered that just a block over was the always-busy Avenida Santa Fe.  






At some point we decided it was time to explore one of THE MANY Palermos that are in Buenos Aires.  We ended up choosing to go out to various bars in Palermo Hollywood and found two super inviting, young, and one might even say hipster (a la couches, chess tables, and "abstract" art crookidly hanging on the walls) roof'top bars.


If night-time, blurry phone pictures ever DID turn out, that would be a miracle.
We were also invited, through our program at FLACSO to watch and participate in Tango lessons at 
La Viruta Tango--a really popular club for both locals and tourists.
Let´s say, it was a true reminder to not take yourself too seriously.  And with that--whether you were fortunate to dance with an appealing partner, a long, bearded unkempt, handsy older man, or with a chair--it was a lot of fun.


I´m the one that´s you think is dancing the best in this picture.  
(Chiste, chiste!!  ;) )

Yet another opportunity that we had through our program in FLACSO was to spend a day maxin' and relaxin'...and horse back ridin' in Chascomús.  It's a providence South of Buenos Aires (about a 2 hour bus drive) with, well just look at the pictures!
There was tanning. And horses. And ponies that were almost crushed by SOMEone (it was me!!) trying to ride them. And there was the general splendor of God's beautiful creation!

Oh, did I forget to mention that we had authentic asado and a gaucho performance??





Beautiful scenery, hot sun, mouth-wateringly, delicious meat, the smell of that mouth-wateringly, delicious meat, and sound of complete relaxation!  After this trip, all of my senses were happily satisfied!!


And then there was the trip that I opted to take on my own.  I ended up visiting some old family friends and had the opportunity to attend La Iglesia Alianza Cristiana y Misionera Argentina en Olivos.  It was a day that left me very thankful for the wonderful sermon, the welcoming and loving people I met at church and after where I was invited to join a small group for lunch.  If it wasn't already amazing to be able to chat and spend time with such fun and loving people, there were empanadas. And pizza. And more empanadas. And Torta de Ricota. And even Caramel Brownies. So, again, I left content both in heart and in stomach!



And other explorations these past two weeks include, but are not limited to...  (from left to right: El Obelisco, El Jardín Japonés, Puente de la Mujer, ChinaTown, La Feria de Recoleta, and La Estación Retiro)



And then.  Classes started.
Other than my classes at FLACSO, I will also be attending class at UCA (Universidad Católica Argentina), potentially UBA (Universidad Buenos Aires), and hopefully at IUNA (Instituto Universitario Nacional del Arte) for a photography class!  I'm really excited to be able to learn such a vast array of subjects firsthand from the perspective and qualification of Argentine professors!  And hopefully to be able to be surrounded by some Argentine students!

First day of classes at UCA!  
And now that classes have started, that ends any potential fun that was in store for the next 4 and a half months... HA! Riiiight.
Next week we already have our tickets for Montevideo, the following week we celebrate another good friend's birthday, and already the next weekend is La Semana Santa where I have plans to spend it in Luján with one of my best friends!  Pretty sure that's the epitome of "potential fun"...

This kid is just getting started on her Argentine adventures!




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